Good catch! The nocash document says Pandemonium 2 uses a larger width, but doesn’t specify exactly what that is. Do we know?
384 being the total and 368 being active makes sense to me, and would explain the confusion, yeah. given 368 seems to be the ‘official’ spec, I’ll keep with that.
I haven’t checked Pandemonium 2 but it was referenced as exceptional in another document I saw, too. Guess I should do that.
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If the time sleuth is too expensive for you, there’s also a nearly free if more time consuming alternative using a raspberry pi:
Hey all. Finally attempting to get around to replacing the Extron DSC 301 HD that I had that seems to have died out unfortunately. I was using the device to take the 960p signal of the OSSC and scale it to 1080p for my TV to work more easily with. I may consider just buying another but I thought I’d ask if any of you know of a device that may be able to accomplish the same thing for cheaper. I tried a little HDMI powered DVDO Micro scaler but it didn’t seem to want to attempt to scale the 960p signal at all.
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So I finally discovered that the issue I was having with my N64 was caused by my Otaku Games Switch.
It’s no longer accepting the RGB sync on luma signal, and just outputs a buzzing blue image but I borrowed a SCART to BNC break out and hooked it up directly to my 20L2 and it worked first time with no issues. The interesting thing is that all my other consoles work, I’ve mixed and matched inputs, tried a new cable, a new power supply.
I’ve started the return process with Otaku games so it will be interesting to see how this pans out. I’ll be sure to post my experiences here.
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Neat. Between this and the Sharpscale hack for Vita/PSTV a good couple of weeks for PSP.
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So I picked up a cheap powered component video switch for my BKM-129x clone card. I’ll post some impressions once I confirm it isn’t adding any noise or causing any issues. Looks to be similar in design to the Monoprice Switch.
The other bonus is the wiring in my house was causing issues with my GC and my PVM20L2. The fact that the switch is powered seems to bring the signal back in line so the monitor accepts it no problem.
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Tidy!
Can anyone recommend a good quality component video switch. The one I just bought despite working fine the first day now refuses to stay on any input other than 2 (despite being a manual switch)
I’ve read good things about the Monoprice Switch but I don’t think it’s available at the moment and I’m located in Australia.
The monoprice switch is garbage, don’t bother. Any flashes to white screens will cause a signal drop if you feed to a digital display / ossc or ugly darkening if you’re feeding to a crt. I have two of them and had to replace them because they’re no good.
I tried ordering the otaku one but 2 months after I paid and 2 months of excuses they stopped responding to any inquiry on when they would ship and I had to get paypal to refund me.
I ended up buying a few Philips Manual HD Switcher SWS2325W/17 which were sold new open box. 2 arrived new and one was visibly used which was very weird. They are combo composite/svideo/component switches with only 3 of the inputs capable of doing component so it may not suit your needs but the signal quality is good and it doesn’t drop on white screens. I’ve heard good things about their auto switchers and the pelican auto one as well but I’m pretty scared away from any powered switches at this point.
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Not that I doubt you, but I have not had any issues with mine. It may have been something in your chain which it didn’t like. It isn’t that great of a Switch though and does nothing special and is not worth waiting for.
There are also always BNC matrix switches in case you want something more industrial grade and full proof.
The JVC - JX-S777 AV Selector(Industrial Component Switcher) and Extron Crosspoint (Industrial BNC Switcher) are top notch. Sony also made Industrial BNC switchers, they are on eBay from time to time.
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I have tried several consoles on 2 different hd/4ktvs and two CRTs on two different monoprice switches, direct into TV and into an OSSC. A flash to a white screen consistently causes issues, in games or dvd movies. Try a Resident Evil title screen.
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Thanks for the tips everyone!
The frustrating thing is I’d be fine with this switch if it didn’t keep flicking back to input 2 despite being a manual switch. I’ve got the day off today so I’ll do some troubleshooting. I just had a thought that maybe mounting it sideways is causing it.
Almost responded to you on here as well. Thought I had a serious case of deja vu.
Kai or original?
Original, I’m waiting for a copy of Kai to arrive from Japan T_T
Kai is mega hard lol.
I know I’ll need to get gud. I find the og quite hard!