I ended up getting a DCHDMI early in the year and have been using that. Works pretty great, and I haven’t run into any games it won’t work with.
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Is there a good component switch available anywhere? I have an original Xbox, a Wii and a PS2 that I want to run through it (may run the PS2 through the RGB cable, not sure yet).
http://www.gretrostuff.com/store/gcompsw-v1-0/
I have the gscartsw and it is phenomenal. I imagine his comp switch is just as good.
Found this already but it was sold out. Didnt find an alternative. Guess I have to wait.
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There’s also the Otaku games component/scart switch I have the scart only version and I’ve found it to be excellent.
Oh nice, will look into this one. Thanks!
I’ve only had it for about a month or so but the build quality is solid and as it is a mechanical switch there is no drop in video quality or sync issues you can run into on some auto switchers.
Yeah, with enthusiast gear like that there’s always waiting involved. It’s usually worth it though.
You could also always go with a BNC matrix switch and get component and scart selection in one device. Just be cognizant of the fact you’ll need Phoenix block connectors for the audio.
It’s my preferred method of setting things up these days. And you always get perfect quality with them since they’re industrial grade. A perfect compliment to a Broadcast monitor.
That said, I’ve had success with the monoprice component switch. Couldn’t notice any loss of quality on that either.
Problem with Monoprice stuff is that it’s not easily available in Europe or at least Germany. Would have totally bought that cheap Monoprice Switch. And the BNC switches that I saw on ebay are rather expensive if you actually find one located in Germany (100€+). Considering the fact that you have to buy adapters for all systems and the size of those things it’s probably better in my case to go with a cheaper switch. I hope there will be more good and affordable HDMI solutions (yeah, not those cheap things from Hyperkin or whatever) for those consoles in the future so that the component switch is just there until it’s not needed anymore. But who knows.
Hello, I have a question. Anyone mind sharing their FV310 standard menu and service menu settings that’s been calibrated?
My mission to create optimized OSSC timing profiles for every resolution you can pull out of a PS2 is going to be way more of a rabbit hole than I was hoping. Gonna have to learn maths again. Ew.
Okay, did the dirty deed. For OSSC users, here are the horizontal samplerate values needed for a perfect scale running ps1 games on a ps2. I have no idea how consistent these values are, but I’m running a DTL-50001 PS2. It’s fairly easy to figure out the resolution of the games, as one of the optimized settings will look significantly cleaner than others. Additionally, you may have to adjust Sampling phase and mess with filtering settings. Your TV/Monitor/Capture device may apply some shitty scaling to this additionally, but on my set up theyre all perfect.
512x240 - 686.40
384x240 - 490.00
320x240 - 429.00
256x240 - 342.50
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I have a dumb problem. I’m thinking about upgrading my 46 LCD from 2007 to a newer 4K display (with OSSC) in the next two years but I’m hesitant as my current TV has svideo, component, and a VGA input. I have a Framemeister hooked up to the TV.
I would keep it as a second monitor but I already have a lot of alternate displays and 46" is too big to keep around.
Any suggestions?
If you really need S-Video support, you could use a RetroTINK 2X, plus an HDMI to VGA converter, into AV3 of the OSSC. That’s really the only thing you’d be missing.
But first the question must be asked - what do you need s-video for?
I don’t need svideo for anything. Its mainly component Im worried about. I think Im worried ill buy a 4k TV and it wont be as good for retro gaming as the TV it replaced.
Maybe I should take a look at an OLED and see what all the fuss is about.
Definitely check out OLED (unless you have a bright room). Chances are, the OSSC will handle component better than your current TV.
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I don’t think you have to worry about the new TV being worse. It seems like lag is lower in general on newer televisions? I have a RetroTINK-2x that I use to put my pre-HDMI consoles on modern TVs. It accepts composite, S-Video and Component. If you already have an OSSC, you’ll be fine.
I’ll highly recommend using a site like rtings.com. Before deciding on a model, check there and usually you can find all kinds of info, from lag, to inputs it supports, color reproduction, how well it handles different resolutions, how the backlighting is, I mean basically everything.
Using it you should be able to find a low lag solution that fits your needs. Also I believe hdretrovision or maybe it was citrus3000psi (creator of DCHDMI, and other awesome mods and devices) on twitter that have a recommend component to hdmi converter that doesn’t add lag or f up the color and such.
If you’re going to go to places and check out tvs I would also recommend ordering a Time Sleuth from Citrus3000PSI, https://shop.dansprojects.com/time-sleuth-lag-tester.html. It’s a small device that has an HDMI port, and a USB port and can be powered by any tv’s usb port. You plug it in and hold it up to the center box and it’ll tell you how much lag there is. Now to compare it to a CRT you should remove 8ms from that number. (It takes a CRT tv 16ms to draw a frame from top to bottom, so on a CRT the Time Sleuth would show 8ms at the center box). I don’t know if this is something rtings takes into account on their lag ratings. They used to use a Leo Bodnar tool, but they recently built their own tool.
And some times tv’s get better with firmware updates. I have a Samsung 4k from 2015, that when I got it rtings rated it at 24ms of lag in game mode, and when I tested it when I got my time sleuth (which was just earlier this year) after several firmware updates they have it down to 12ms. So they were able to cut it in half.
Can’t speak to their TV reviews in particular, but rtings does some super questionable shit. For example, HERE’s a picture of the backwards LCD-1s they reviewed today, and their measurements have at least 1 other glaring issue. In the audio community they’re a real joke. Just don’t take them as gospel is all I’m saying.
