Never saw this guy’s channel before. I really liked it.
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He’s great! Another of my favourites is his
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the answer is, it actually looks pretty damn great. 720p and 1080p requires a lot of fiddling with the monitor as they are wide-screen signals, but the great thing is 480p is a 640x480 4:3 image (but with the assets squeezed down), which works out pretty great for shmups as I can resize them back to the correct aspect ratio in-game
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I’ve got a fun mystery to solve here and I don’t know if it’s an easy or difficult one.
I’m getting two unique monitors in a trade - Hantarex MGG 28. They were used for trade shows and advertising. They stack up for video wall art exhibitions and stuff.
I’m planning on using solely digital sources: Mister and mame. Both can be configured for composite sync output in there .ini files. These output through standard VGA.
What hardware is required to get it running on the 9pin RGB inputs that these monitors use?
Yeah there’s a lot going on back there.
Would it be just as simple as some sort of raw VGA to 9pin converter cable?
If not, I also have an extron sync combiner that takes the VGA and outputs bnc.
I think this is an easy solution but I’m not quite there yet.
I think behar bros makes a device precisely for this purpose.
I’m fairly new to this stuff. I’ve only been in the arcade world mostly.
Can you help me find whatever this device is?
Other questions I thought of last night:
What exactly is in a BNC cable? Does it only contain one signal each or is there a ground in there?
If it’s just one signal, can’t I just make a cable that connects the output from the extron directly to a 9pin breakout board, according to their specs above? With the HV line going to composite sync (sincronismo composito).
I’m also not opposed to any SCART solution either. I have heard that the manual doesn’t actually give the correct SCART pinout though.
Absolute beasts!
Check this old post https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/7thckd/scored_some_hantarex_crt_monitors_need_some_tips/dtcpu8i/?context=3
Thank you!
I’ve zeroed in on this post:
I’ve found that these monitors have many different versions. The one in the Reddit thread has only a TTL 9-pin, which is what they’re saying to be only digital.
The one I’m looking at has a switch that goes between “Analog” and “TTL-1” right next to its 9-pin. So Im going to assume that it isn’t a strictly digital input.
The output from the mister and mame will be 240p and composite sync. That would only be a problem when trying to switch signals from a Super Nintendo or something.
So I guess my only question is can I just cut open four bnc cables (outputting R,G,B, and HV) and wire them directly into a dsub 9-pin with this as my guide?
Or do those signals carry some other quality that I’m not accounting for? I’m assuming the HV line would just go straight to the “composite sync” line.
Edit:
Apologies to those who know this stuff - bnc cables are just coax cables basically? Heavily shielded copper.
So I should be able to just directly connect to a db9 breakout board I think
Edit2: bnc are the connectors. The wire can be anything. I’ve seen 24awg and coax both. Apologies to anyone following along my stream of consciousness post here
N64 in a TV!?
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A video of the entire modding process of putting a SNES into one of these SEMP 1022 10" CRT TVs.
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Now that is strange. Plus I neblver knew TEAC made a TV.
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okay y’all, so i finally found a solid deal on a switch thanks to bob from RGB & just got this one in
only catch is, the component to RGB adapter i’ve been using only has the female end available, and those are all female slots
looking at retro-access site, which cable should i order? this one or another? the other ones seem to be JP21 so i wasn’t sure, hoping to order soon so i can get in when she ships the next wave
wait i could just get a male to male scart adapter couldn’t i 
I recently got a RetroTink 5X Pro, does anyone know what the default setting for Interpolation is? Is it defaulted out of the box to “Sharp” or “Soft”? Reason I’m asking is I think that I accidentally changed it while cycling through the other options but then immediately forgot what it was set to before. 
Anyways, the Framemeister is great but after about a year with it I decided to get the RetroTink due to the Framemeister’s resolution/frame drop issue on 480i systems like the Saturn which bugged me too much. Really impressed with the RetroTink, absolutely phenomenal and so much more user friendly to get what you need out of it.
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What exactly is your current setup? What point in the chain are you converting Component to RGB and why?
so my current setup is a component to RGB converter box, then i was using a regular male to female SCART cable out of the other end & changing over to whatever system as needed, yeah? works great with my CRT having component, but i got that switch box (i have 12 RGB systems, so 10 slots is good!) but it lacks a cable of its own, so i basically want the end of said component to RGB converter box to have a male SCART that goes to another male SCART as the video source for said switch. i hope that makes sense!
i emailed retro to ask if the one i linked to is male to male & would work for my purposes, but she usually takes a bit
Some of those older sets look amazing. Music in the video is quite good as well.
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Sony back then:
Today:
Still such a bizarre design to me.
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I have a book of Sony’s 90s product design. It’s amazing.
“Digital Dreams: The Work of the Sony Design Center”, by Paul Kunkel, published in 1999
I don’t think many TVs in it though.
Here’s a Twitter thread with a bunch of scans, but it’s only a selection from the book.
https://twitter.com/gingerbeardman/status/1636867958583570434
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90s SONY was definite on the more adventurous side of design at times. But still nothing that valued form over function like the PS5.
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