I honestly don’t think this is an issue with your monitors that can be solved on the hardware side. It’s a software issue - sometimes the developers really don’t know how to make scanlines look correct and they’re scaled unevenly at the framebuffer level.
You can test this by trying the Switch in portable mode - if the scanlines look wrong there on its built-in 720p screen, they won’t magically look correct by putting the system in 720p mode for a 4k screen or a 1440p screen.
My honest advice is to simply get the best screen within your budget without trying to “solve” for this particular issue. A ton of developers just don’t really know what they’re doing when it comes to CRT filters.
The amount of games with scanline filters hat would look good in 720p mode on a 4k screen, but bad in 1080p mode are probably not worth worrying about (in fact, you may find the answer is zero games altogether after running the portable mode test I mentioned above).
You don’t have a model switch that can be hacked do you? You could do that and run some of these games in Retroarch and get more control over the scaling and filtering
@Peltz - Ha, that’s something I didn’t even think about.
I ran a couple of quick tests and - to my surprise - only a few games did actually display better-ish at 720p in portable mode… Sonic Mania with its CRT-Sharp filter, Fight’n Rage with Smooth + Scanlines and ACA NeoGeo (screen size still needed to be reduced, to 150 instead of 133, which is required at 1080p).
Capcom Arcade Stadium (both of them) remained botched at 720p - the scanlines only kinda worked with the screen reduced to ‘Arcade’ size, but even then they looked super fake and nasty - and Johnny Turbo games showed entirely different artifacts.
At this point, I’ll just get the monitor I want for my PC and the other consoles (I’m leaning towards the 4K LG 27GP950 UltraGear, or its 850 1440p counterpart), taking all that it will potentially do well with the Switch as an added bonus.
@Abwezi - I don’t unfortunately, but the point was to improve the look of the games that I purchsed/will purchase on the Switch. I already use Retroarch on my PC.
I really liked Fight N’ Rage’s scanlines. Sonic Mania is another good one as well as the Capcom Beat Em Up Collection
there are games like Gynoug and Clockwork Aquario by a certain publisher I can’t remember who have very robust scanline filters with different mask types and the works
I’ve recently re-set up my Wii for some Game Cube action. I previously used D-Sub but my new LG Doesn’t have a D-Sub port so I bought a set of 3rd parts component cables for the Wii. This will allow me to use it in progressive scan mode on Game Cube games. Problem is, my PS2 also used component cables and switching them around is a pain in the arse.
So, I upgraded the Retro Tink 5X Pro to solve the issue
These are gold plated 2 way splitters for audio but they also work great for component cables. Set of 4 on Amazon Japan are only 1480 yen. They do no degradation to the image at all. I’ll put a link down below for Amazon US and Japan. I can’t find the right ones on Amazon UK.
As you can see, the Wii / Game Cube looks rather good with a regular mask. No need to add scanlines. Running at 1080p on a 4K panel.
If you end up going with a UHD/4K monitor, I believe filters and such have a few more options if you pursue PC emulation over any of the switch versions which are unsatisfactory.
I find filters at 1080p on an lcd a bit underwhelming for anything other than handhelds. But they are OK on a fine dot pitch crt monitor.
This could also be motion clarity.
Was wondering if anyone with Sony BVM experience could help me troubleshoot two modules I got for mine recently. They don’t display video properly and I want to make sure if they’re broken or not before I proceed.
full disclosure: I have no hands on experience with a BVM.
What BVM model and input cards are you using?
It looks like it could maybe be a sync issue? I’m sure you have tested already, but the same chain from console to monitor works on other CRT’s? Are there sync settings you can change in the service menu?
Are you able to test out the GCN via another input (Y/C, Composite) on the BVM than the one in the video to see if it works?
All basic stuff that I’m sure you’ve tried, just trying to to rule things out so others more knowledgeable than me can maybe chime in.
so does anyone have a recommendation on a scart switch that isn’t crazy expensive? that last $100 one didn’t work out, still hoping to find an option for my 10+ cables so i’m not forever plugging them in & out
Could always go with a BNC matrix switch. To me, that’s still the cleanest if you can convert all of your RGB signals from SCART to BNC.
Alternatively, although this may be a bit outdated by now, this video is a great rundown of options circa 2017. I imagine new ones have come out since.
if you feed it a 16:9 signal (like from a Nintendo Switch for example), would it be displayed with black bars or would it be stretched (or can you control this?)
I’m thinking of getting one to set up as a TATE monitor for shmups, of which I have a ton on the Switch
thanks. what if I want them to be stretched though? since most shmups have scaling options, if I stretch the image on the monitor, I can stretch it horizontally via the game right? I do something similar when downscaling 4:3 games. I stretch it to 16:9 in game, then it gets squeezed back to 4:3 after its downscaled (true 16:9 stuff is still stretched)
Wow that guy rules and that vid is great! Thanks Matt.
I have a MSX2 and have been putting together a “perfect” setup at a desk for that single machine, since it’s a little different to use than the consoles that I’m used to.
