Oh man, this is a very dangerous thread. Halfway through reading it I found my self on Yahoo Auctions checking out the prices for PCBs and a quality supergun.
NO!! I must resist. I want to buy an XBOX One X when they finally arrive back in stock.
But looking at those PCBs and sexy supergun is so tempting!! Oh, why am I so weak to resist!
It’s all good to me. New or old, I really don’t care. I like it all
Just finished Sonic Forces last night. man, that was a very easy game even on hard setting. So disappointing. I may as well go back and do the Shadow mission and try to get 100% on all stages now to eek out some value. Super Lucky’s Tale is lasting much longer.
You just gotta remember those candy cabs the ferraris of the arcade world. They’re awesome and can do all sorts of things a regular cab can’t, but when it comes time for maintenance or they break down you better know how/who to fix it and where to source the parts.
I’ve currently got a Blast, New Net City and a Super Neo 29. The Toshiba monitor on the NNC isn’t even recognized by the company, even though it’s considered one of the greatest arcade monitors ever. It busted a while ago and I’ve only recently maybe found someone to service it, which is going to cost a pretty penny.
One thing to keep in mind, though, is that an actual cab is going to be a bit of a pain in the ass if you play the occasional shmup. Vertical-scrolling shmups are generally played on 4:3 monitors that are rotated vertically… so if you have an arcade monitor that’s seated normally for fighting games and the like, shmups will show up sideways. Not ideal. You’ll have to flip the monitor in order to get it to display properly, and chances are that you really, really don’t want to do that.
If you’re playing on GroovyMame or the like, you can go into the subsystem and change the joystick inputs to control correctly on tate games while keeping the screen horizontal. Up is now Right, Down is now Left, etc.
It isn’t the best solution and definitely not how the games are properly supposed to be played, but if you just want to give a shmup a quick look, that’s the way to go while avoiding black bars on either side.
I guess you could do the same with the actual pcb by physically changing the joystick wiring, but at that point, get a friend and rotate the monitor.
Some other random notes I have while drinking my morning coffee:
-Investing in a Dreamcast, a tri-sync candy cab, and a jamma controls converter has spared me having to buy a Naomi.
-Simple Green works well to get the cigarette smell out of metals and plastics.
-Some people use step down voltage converters for their Japanese cabinets. I think it’s a safe thing to do, but doesn’t really have an effect.
-Surge protectors should obviously be used. Just remember to change them every few years or sooner. The filament in them will degrade with surges.
-Don’t ever hook your monitor directly up to wall outlet.
-Dropping coins in the system is fun for guests but if you’re going to be learning to 1CC a game, hook up an external extra credit button.
-I often think that 29 inch candy cab screens are too big for fighting games. I notice when I play I like to have the full screen in my frontal vision, in order to get a good sense of spacing, and candys make you sit too close. I’m probably alone on this one. I prefer the 19” for Street Fighter and the rest.
-You can hook up a PlayStation 1/2 via a sync-on-green vga cable to a tri sync monitor also, but it doesn’t really have the arcade library a DC does. It’s good for older Tekkens and Einhander comes to mind.
Okay last edit, I promise:
If you’re looking to own and maintain an arcade cabinet, you should be at least slightly adept at
-replacing capacitors without severely burning and electrocuting yourself
-general circuitry and troubleshooting
-remaining calm, drinking a beer, then trying again
-just have a lot of money
I got my brother a Windy ATP-300 as a gift this past Christmas - fairly expensive compared to going raw but it’s console-easy, has CPS2 harness and has Neo Geo pinouts (which we already collect and play). Honestly as a supergun super noob I couldn’t believe I could just buy a PCB on ebay and plug it in and it works on my TV, no headaches. Bought a Neo Geo one slot and it just boots up the MVS cart no problem. I was at his place this weekend and he had a Taito F3 plugged in, ran easy peasy. Clean and easy, the Windy seems great so far. Plus I emailed the guy a question one night at like 230am and he replied within 10 minutes, that’s the type of service I’m looking for!
If you haven’t pulled the trigger yet D.Lo, check out RGB’s HAS supergun, it’s what I’m using and absolutely love it! Amazing product, and a phenomenal supergun with loads of useful extra’s, here’s the direct link to his selling page: https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=52895
Ah I had actually seen that one. Certainly Saturn joypad converters would be extremely great for me.
It doesn’t have a regular scart out though so needs a special cable.
What do you power it with? That’s the thing I’m considering, if it costs me AU$300 for a bunch of raw PCB type elements with a separate power supply, I may be better jumping into a nice boxed supergun with built in power?