What do you guys think of this? Is this worth doing? Seems awfully cheap… could I do it myself?
Just the price of SCART cables alone versus the Component counterparts would make this worth doing as a cost savings measure. As an example, I can get a SCART cable for my SNES for about $20 USD, while the Component ones are about $60 USD.
Every CRT has to, at some point, convert back to R G B and a sync in order to display the picture. We of course lost out on this output in NA even though the TV’s technically did support it. What we’ve found out is that the OSD is an easily accessible RGBs input on most consumer TV’s so that’s how you get the RGBs input on the TV.
He includes a toggle switch which will disable the 5v to the blanking pin and allow you to use the OSD again.
@KC-Slater has a trinitron done this way so maybe he will chime in on how he likes it!
Indeed an RGB to Component encoder and a Component-capable 15kHz CRT TV is the easiest system to use in North America. And also one that gives the best result. If the Component signal doesn’t have chroma subsampling (4:4:4), It will give you virtually the same result as if using a European CRT TV with Scart. The end result depends entirely on the quality on the TV, and that’s true on both sides of the Atlantic.
This is indeed the situation with my 27” consumer Trinitron set. I use the switch at the back to toggle between the default TV inputs/settings and the RGB monitor-mode (although I dont really have any reason to do so, outside of volume adjustment or tweaking the display settings) Source input is handled via an included Euro-SCART port. While the TV itself is nothing fancy, the RGB picture is bright and crisp. It looks fantastic, especially at this size! (Similar to an arcade monitor.) I use this CRT almost exclusively at this point with my CMVS, CPS2 and Saturn, despite also having a 14” PVM.
I heard back from him and he doesn’t think my TV will be able to be modified. That’s okay though, I’m thinking that just converting to component with the SB-2840 is the best way to tackle this anyway.
Here’s my talk with him:
ME: Hi there. Just saw your ad about SCART modification. Can you tell me a little more about it?
I’ve got a Sony 27FS320. Would the SCART input take the spot of a current input? Would all the other inputs still function? Would the audio out still function with the SCART?
HIM: Hey, just saw your message and checking service manuals now. The way I’ve been doing it, the sync and audio connect to one of the regular AV inputs. That input is still usable, just not at the same time as the scart. Your TV may actually be compatible with a different, simpler method of the mod, but I’ll get back to you on that in a few once I’ve given the manual a proper read.
ME: Okay, thanks for getting back to me. I’d also like to know if the OSD still maintains use with the SCART input, or will it only display the pure input from the SCART connection?
HIM: There are 2 methods that I use, OSD and CCD. With the OSD method, you have a switch that selects between ext. RGB and OSD, so you can only see one or the other at a time. With the CCD method, your external RGB takes the place of the closed caption signal rather than the OSD, so you can have both ext. RGB and OSD at the same time. However I regret to inform you that, after a better look at your TV’s schematics, I’m not sure I can do either. Both methods rely on OSD/CCD generation to be done in a separate chip to the “Jungle” which mixes the video signals and sends them to the tube at the right levels and format. Your TV does all these things in one chip leaving me nowhere to inject external RGB. My apologies for giving you an affirmative before I was absolutely sure, and potentially misleading you.
It’s primarily a USA thing, really. Over here in the UK/EU, every CRT between 1990 to now had RGB SCART built in. I grew up with my first personal CRT in 1996, along with my first N64, and it had RGB SCART. not that the N64 could use it (it took SVIDEO via SCART), but my SNES could. And the GameCube could after.
If you’re in the UK/EU, you just need scart. And 99% of CRTs don’t need modification. the USA is a bit more complicated though.