There’s an electrical parts list in the service manual. Here it is:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/697520/Sony-Trinitron-Kv-20fs12.html?page=38#manual
How do you usually ground it to discharge it? I thought I could connect it to a pipe.
My experience is with arcade monitors that have metal chassis to ground it.
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/How_to_discharge_a_monitor
YouTube some videos, follow it to a T. Make sure people/pets/fireworks aren’t anywhere close. Keep one hand in your pocket. Do not leave the casing open with a charged monitor.
I would run that cap list by someone who knows more about that stuff. You are liable to spend a lot of time doing this cap changeout and one small mistake will be frustrating.
Again, I wouldn’t really recommend doing this for such a minor issue. But that’s your prerogative and I wish you the best of luck.
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I was also planning on RGB modding it and I thought I would only open it once and do everything then.
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Honestly to me it sounds like a worthy endeavor. If you do some research on how to discharge the tube and work on these things, it can be done.
If you’ve got some experience with electronics and using a soldering iron, then this TV is small enough that it shouldn’t be too difficultt
If this is your first time working with electronics or using a soldering iron, then I would say that you should straight up stay away from it. Start with some smaller projects first.
I modded my GBA and I have done other soldering and electrical projects. It might take me a while to start because I need to gather components, but when I do, I’ll start a new topic and keep you guys informed. Thank you to everyone who replied to my questions as you have been so helpful.
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I was thinking about how I was going to mod it today, and I realized that having an RGB CRT with no geometry issues isn’t worth being electrocuted. I’m sorry to everyone who was hoping to see the results. 
You may unlike my earlier post if you want.
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Considering it seems like you found this little guy on the market within a few days, just keep watching for others, and I’m sure you’ll find a replacement.
Good news is, in north america televisions with component are commonly found for free, then you don’t have to bother with an RGB mod.
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I haven’t found any CRTs that are 20 inch or less that have component. Have you ever seen a TV like this?
Yup, there are a few models of Sony and Toshiba for sure that have them. There’s probably JVC models too.
Pretty much exactly what you have, but newer models.
Sony KV-13FS100 and KV-13FS120, Toshiba 13AF44, and 13AF45.
Those are all 13", but the same models came in 20", 24" and 27" as well.
Should I stay away from flat-screen Trinitrons?
If you want component, you’ll have to go with flat. They are great TVs, and for the most part the smaller ones don’t bow much at all, like yours is.
I found a PVM-1954Q locally. What is a reasonable price for this CRT?
First off, I am a huge fan of the JVC TM-A13SU monitors I have, they are fantastic for S-video! If the model you were seeing was composite only I wouldn’t have bothered either though.
Secondly, PVM value is a tough question. The 1954Q is a slightly older model (mid-late 90s) but is a really good set, pretty much the quintessential PVM with 600TVL and built like a tank.
I’d expect the seller to be looking for up to $500 or so if he knows the crazy prices PVMs are going for online, but especially for a local listing I’d try and get it for half that (and only if it is in very good shape). Just be sure to test the set and look for things like a dim screen, severe geometry issues, burn-in, very loud noises, broken connectors or buttons, scratches, and finally overall picture.
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The seller is asking $1,000. I probably can’t talk him down to $250.
WOW! $1000 is pretty crazy for a 1954Q. I’d expect that asking price for a 20L5 or a BVM, but not an older 480i only PVM. They’re good sets but they’re not even top of the line and are older than the L-series and M-series sets you see fairly often. At that price I would for sure just pass and look for any decent set with component.
Of course 5 years ago I’d have said the same thing if the price had been $500. Or $250 in 2010. Retro gaming has really blown up in some ways.
$1k sounds nuts to me. 4-5 years ago, I bought a PVM 20L5 for around $1200, but it was pretty much new in box.
I would try to be patient rather than jump on that offer. For a solid 480i/240p PVM, I’d try to keep it under $500 for sure.
Wow, I bought my 1954q for $50 six years ago or so. Granted it was just dumb luck walking through a surplus area and seeing it. I bought a 14L2 from a medical supply company for $100 about 2 years ago. A year ago or so I saw they had a 20M2U up for sale (call for price). I called and the person said she’d check and get back to me. A couple days later it was listed for $450 and had already sold.
Clif notes: PVM prices be cray cray.
There’s great value still in the consumer crt space though, at least from what I see on Craigslist mostly. The unfortunate part is most are 32” and 36” models and I don’t have anyone to help lift those 200lb+ mofos.
I found a 20" consumer Panasonic TV with component inputs. It looks like it’s in good condition, and it’s only $60. The geometry also looks good. I’m probably going to pick it up on Saturday.
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A 20" CRT with component is going to look very good if it is in decent shape. Be sure to share in the 240p thread once you get it fired up!
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Nice! Congrats.