If you went with a Crosspoint wouldn’t it be better to just have the GSCART/component switch feed to it and have it do all the outputting to the HDTV/OSSC/PVM? That way all inputs would always have all options available. This means a smaller unit would work, something like 4x4.
It just seems like a waste to use the Crosspoint just to replace a component switch you already have. If I’m thinking right you only need one additional BNC>SCART cable for the OSSC for that to work.
Ah i see your point. The GSSCARTSW can output both signals at the same time.
There is never a point where anyone but me is using my systems. Going your way I would still need another component switch. Going my way, I could use the extron to handle all my component devices which I could use the 2nd output to keep my xrgb or I can output to another pvm/tv.
I think a large matrix would be best with the amount of things I have. This would probably make everything easier but I also don’t want to re-purchase new cables for everything and there is an issue of making space for that.
There is also the option if I am rebuying cables to go the HD Retrovision route and go full component with everything so if I ever add a consumer tv there would not be a need to add a rgb to component converter if I wanted to go that way.
There is sunk cost I am dealing with here and the reason why i brought my setup up for discussion is to learn from you guys. There is a lot of things for me to consider here. I appreciate everyone’s input.
Why would you need a second component switch with my recommended setup? 
Your current gscart and component switch on inputs 1 and 2 of the Extron could handle all your consoles.
I agree with Bozo on trying to find a 4/4 matrix switch. Two inputs are the switches above. Your four outputs would be PVM, consumer TV, OSSC and XRGB.
This probably the only one I could fit into my current set up due to space. I think this is where we aren’t syncing up. This would actually allow me 4 component systems and be able to feed one output to my scart sw and the other to a HDTV or XRGB. If I got a bigger one I could do much of what you were suggesting. But the ability to have a different output on every monitor (since I am only using 2 currently) isn’t that big of a deal. Also there is a part of me that wants to keep everything as basic as I can so it doesn’t overrun my space.
An Extron sounds like the way to go for component especially, I may actually pick one up for my setup to reduce cabling. They are huge though if you get an 8x8 or larger.
If it came down to it, component cables for the SNES, Genesis, and PS1 would be about $180 (not sure if the NT Mini has that option). If you went full component and sold the GSCART (if you wanted to), that’d be pretty much a zero sum. The N64 is the kicker though, I’m not sure there is a component option for it. This would free up some space and streamline the systems overall.
Edit: So all I’m seeing on an initial Ebay search is 8x4 Crosspoints, which seem to be the same size as a 12x8 but with sealed connections in the back.
I thought the MLiG guys said if you have a RGB modded N64 the SNES component cables work. Oh, I had the HD Retovision SNES cable but it didn’t like the OSSC paired to my 4K. I couldn’t get it working. I sold it to a friend, I wonder if he would lend it to me to test something.
Edit: I doesn’t matter as much with the SNES because of the NT and I am likely going to do the Ultra HDMI soonish.
I get what you’re saying. Trust me, I’ve looked at this every which way! But if you’re just going to use the Extron as a Component switch to feed into your gscartsw, you’re better off not getting it since it’s bulky and not adding anything to your setup (read 2nd para below). I look at your diagram and, based on your needs, all you require is everything on the gscartsw. Neither an Extron purchase or the current Component switch are doing more than adding clutter. The exception for the component switch is if you ran out of space on the gscartsw and needed more inputs.
At most what you need is more outputs: get a Scart splitter between your gscartsw and your output devices so you can have your OSSC, XRGB and TV’s Component all directly accessible by your consoles. You can then bring the PSP Go onto the gscartsw which makes for a total of 9 devices. This is one too many – here you can reintroduce the daisy-chained Component switch or remove “redundant” systems like the PS1.
I came to a similar conclusion last night.
I found a few problems due to testing last night. I took my component switch directly to my my OSSC and noticed there was no interference. I also tested with that component to scart adapter and I found that there is no interferance caused by either directly hooking it up to the gsscartsw or the ossc.
Where the issue lies is that i need a scart cable to connect it as it won’t fit under my tv stand directly plugged in. So I am going to have to buy a better short ( < 3’) shielded scart cable. I am also going to need to buy another slightly longer shielded scart cable ( < 4-6’) to go from my gsscartsw output to my ossc. Currently, they are the Amazon cables with the German-sounding name that cost $12 (looks like they are only $6 now) or so and look really thick but I think if i cut it open its probably junk. I think the shorter one is not adding much interference but the long one is absolutely degrading the image and adding color issues and noise.
New OSSC update is out. The profile by input is something I really wanted!
I’m super new to any kind of RGB cabling in the modern era, and it seems like a lot of the discussions about it are very Euro/SCART-centric, so I’m just going to ask you guys and hope someone can help me out.
I’ve got a Japanese MSX2+ system which uses an 8-pin DIN RGB connector. I’ve misplaced the cable that came with the system, unfortunately. I want to connect it to the XRGB Mini, which also has an 8-pin DIN RGB connector. Unfortunately, most cables I can find are either EuroSCART or JP21. Although I have the standard JP21->8pin cable that came with the XRGB Mini, it doesn’t seem like I’d need it in this equation. Question is, what do I need? I see a lot of different discussions about pinouts and how important that is, so I tried to do some digging, but I wasn’t able to figure out conclusively if the pins are the same on the Framemeister side and the MSX side.
I found the pinout for the MSX, which is this
My search for the pinout on the Framemeister produced a couple of results that seemed different to me, so I wasn’t sure what to trust.
At any rate, if anyone could help me out here, I’d really appreciate it.
They arent 1-1 compatible for sure. The FM uses a mini-din and has stereo support.
I see some seemingly compatible JP RGB cables on amazon japan like this one: https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/aw/d/B0048R8MVA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520099590&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=msx+rgb&dpPl=1&dpID=41gaVAOG4hL&ref=plSrch
I dont think that one ships internationally but if you have a way of having things forwarded it would probably do.
Hmm. Getting enough stuff together to make forwarding that worth it would take a while. Sure would be nice if I could find someone to make a cable for me, or get enough info to do it myself.
Would getting this:
And this:
https://solarisjapan.com/collections/micomsoft/products/eur-scart-adapter
Allow me to do a roundabout conversion? It seems like it would. But it also seems a bit silly when there should be a more direct way.
I imagine that would work (assuming that pinout is standard). I wasn’t aware of people selling Euro MSX RGB cables online but yeah as long as you paired that with a EuroSCART adapter you’d be good.
If you want to try DIYing one this is the FM pinout:
You’d just need to splice an 8-pin mini din male and 8-pin fullsize din male cable together matching pin to pin. Technically there’s no real need to have any console go to a scart head. I did something sorta like this with my RGB modded Duo R where I just had the output be an 8-pin mini-din, matched the pinout to the framemeister and ran a standard 8-pin mini din male to male cable and it was all good. That is until my FM broke and I had to make an adapter to SCART.
I don’t know a single thing about making cables, so I hesitate to do it myself. I guess with the right info I could try it. Is it really just about connecting pin to pin in this case? No extra parts like resistors etc?
I did find this document just now: http://msx.hansotten.com/uploads/files/msxdin8japanscart.txt
Usually yeah it’s just pin to pin. There are some exceptions but it was mostly done to save cost. Only other things to consider is that you’d need basic soldering skills and cable that is ideally shielded.
There’s also RGC.uk which I notice has MSX cables: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/micro-computers/msx/msx-turbo-rgb-av-scart-cable-tv-lead-cord-for-sale They even sell a EuroSCART to framemeister mini din adapter.
I’d love to try to make my own cable sometime, but I’d need to learn more about how that all works. In the meantime I went ahead and had a friend help me out with the cable from Amazon Japan, so hopefully that’ll work out. Thanks for all of the information.
A friend of mine who has gotten deep into CRT and PVM collecting in the last few years just texted me this:
“A few minutes ago I turned this”
“Into this!!! My second PVM! Guy just wanted a Super Gameboy, kinda crazy:”
“Got RGB and S-video, Studio monitor. Its got 600 total vertical lines instead of standard 480. Makes games look sweet. Not a really high TVL unit (I’d like to hit 750-800) but still a gorgeous image. Needs a couple new capacitors.”
I’m probably getting a Framemeister in the next few months but if I decide to get a PVM I definitely have a good source to consult, ha.
Congrats to your friend on the insane trade. But he’s confusing TVL (no standard, varies) with horizontal lines (480 lines interlaced on a SD CRT). Advise him not to chase high TVL. It does nothing to improve retro games and can look worse in some cases… 300-600 is perfect.
Why does it need new capacitors?
I agree 300-600 is perfect.
Thanks, I’ll let him know about that. Not sure why it needs new capacitors.
