The OSSC Pro is going to be awesome but probably pricey, I remember the original OSSC being over 200 dollars(around 225 or so) and I think the OSSC Pro will cost even more.
i’d expect 350-400$ to the states, yeah. Around the cost of a framemeister, assuming it doesn’t have a nice case. more if it does. Just spitballing based on Marq’s comments, though, no technical knowledge of the industry.
Some of the Smoothing filter in action with 480i content:
Doesn’t completely remove the bob/tremble but does certainly reduce it. I would love to pipe the output into an OSSC@ x2 to see if you can reintroduce some sharpness and then add scanlines which I find help reduce the bob/tremble.
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I’ve done this using my RAD2X and an HDMI to VGA adapter and seriously the results are fantastic. IMO the smoothing gets the result as stable as an old TV would, and then the OSSC just does a better job of making it big than my TV’s handling of 480p does.
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That sounds good, I would have picked up a rad2x or tink by now if it wasn’t for the OSSC Pro announcement; hoping there will be a community written algorithm that matches the one Mike uses on his devices.
Yeah I would much prefer having it all in one device, the chaining is really not great so outside of some testing (and an evening absorbed in Soul Calibur 2 set up like this) I tore it apart.
That 1st video is what got me into getting the Retrotink for the smoothing along with the My Life in Gaming video.
Its really weird how I used to want everything as sharp as possible but now I want some things softer. I really wish I could add a layer of softness with PS1, PS2, N64 and maybe even Saturn (at least for 3d games). I have never found a setting on the OSSC for 3D games that really satisfied me. Even the Wii, the Wii is my bane, i really wish I could get a better picture from thing. I have tried piping it directly to component into my tv, into the OSSC & I even got the WiiHDMI mod from Dan. Nothing really satisfies if I am being honest than a good old CRT. I kind of wish I didn’t spring for the HDMI mod but at least it gives me a better component signal.
I was never a sharp-all-the-way kind of guy but I’ve really come to appreciate how a low end CRT looks for old games. Things look soft without looking blurry, it’s really great.
Same here. Pixel perfection on a consumer grade CRT is a nice look. Sharp without the razor sharp look.
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Thanks for clarifying.
I’ll go enjoy some full speed deinterlaced on the ps2. 
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Is that personal preference or is the WiiHDMI not worth it? It’s on my list you see.
It’s hard because almost everything i play on my 4K is 4K content or MiSTer. Everything else tends to be on my CRT. I think the dchdmi (960p) looks fantastic on my 4K but the Wii HDMI is only 480p and its just not that impressive. But I’m not the biggest fan of 480i/p consoles either so it could be me. Emulation for 4K l, native for crts is my speed for gc/wii
I am definitely on the ‘if i can’t see each individual stair in a line, it isn’t sharp enough’ side of the equation. Even with modern games I refuse to use any type of anti aliasing other than multisampling. Can’t fucking stand blur.
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I think the filter does a great job mitigating the bob-deinterlacing artifacts on the PS2. Once I’ve finished my rolling cart I’m going to pick up the 2x SCART so I can just roll it over to my 55" when I feel like playing on the big screen.
Hello everyone! I’ve been having an AV issue that’s been causing me a lot of headaches since it started happening and I’m wondering if you all have any experience with something like this. First I want to draw my whole setup as I had it running to you so you know what all I’m dealing with.
I have a PS2, Wii, and Computer with CRT Emudriver all running through component into a powerless switch box like this
Then I feed the output from the switchbox into my OSSC and CRT TV. From there I had the OSSC being split two ways by this ViewHD 2 way splitter recommended to me in this thread I believe 
From there I had the split OSSC signal going into my CRT Monitor through a Tendak VGA to HDMI converter, as well as to my 4K TV, inbetween which I was running an Extron DSC 301 HD in order to upscale the 960p input to 1080 which my TV displays better.
Now my 4K TV was set to take input from the OSSC, my Computer, PS3, Wii U, and Switch. Since I only have 3 hdmi ports my computer is the only device exclusively in it’s own port. The other 4 systems are plugged into one of these iHarbort switchers
The only other factor in my setup I assume is notable is that I have a Logitec Z506 Surround Sound speaker setup running alongside everything.
Now here’s the issue I’m having. Shortly after I setup the Extron DSC 301 which was the last thing I’ve added, I noticed that initially there was one small problem, now I couldn’t get a signal from the Tendak converter to my monitor no matter what I did. So I tried to fiddle around and make sure everything was plugged in properly but this only exaccerbated the issue. After that I noticed the Extron wasn’t recieving a signal either. I probed deeper and began finding that multiple devices among my chain were (sorry if I word this incorrectly) not recieving enough power through HDMI or actively being shorted out when I plugged in certain HDMI cords. For example I noticed the HDMI splitter would only power on if I totally removed the HDMI output that was going to the tendak. There were even things that seemed inconsistent, for example I can unplug my OSSC from my setup as I had described initially, and plug it straight into my TV and it works! Plugging it into the Extron however would turn the Extron off much like the switcher was doing. Lastly my Wii U seems affected as well. If I plug it into one of my iHarbort switchers it causes the green LEDs to go out and it becomes non-functional, even plugging straight into the TV I recalled giving no signal.
My question to all you experts on this thread is what do you think the cause of this issue is? Is there a way you recommend to diagnose this and resolve this? I’d like to look for any advice before I have to attempt to dissasemble and reassemble my entire setup which I have not been eager to do I’m sure you can imagine. Please let me know any experience you have with an issue like this and thanks to anyone who reads all this.
TL;DR Certain HDMI outputs are shorting out my devices when I plug them in or not sending output properly and I don’t understand why
I have a tendak hdmi to vga converter if thats what you mean. It doesnt have its own power input and relys on hdmi power, which tends to be pretty weak. I’ve found with some testing some devices need the output laundered through a powered hdmi switch that resupplies voltage to the hdmi output, which not all do, before even getting to the tendak. If your extron for example was drawing on the 5V rail of the vga out or something before the tendak wasn’t supplying enough voltage that might cause your problems. At least it’s something to look into.
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I’m not sure I totally understand what you mean about the 5v rail on the VGA output of the Extron? I was always using the Extron with only HDMI cords never VGA if that answers things. Do you think trying to input VGA instead of HDMI to the Extron might help? Any idea what might be causing trouble for the Wii U? I’m hoping there may be a fix without the need of any other powered devices but I understand if you think that might be the only way. I’m already very close to the limit of how many things I can plug in in my space which is why I choose things such as the powerless splitters.
First I would remove the new item and get things back to stable and working.
It sounds like HDMI power issue, or output/input mix up?
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Yeah I would second that part of the problem here is not enough powered devices. There’s a limit to how many things you can power off the power rail of an HDMI cord, you know you start increasing the HDMI run because they’re not going through powered devices too, and that can cause it as well. I forget off hand but there is a limit to how long a regular HDMI cable can run, and that includes it going through non powered devices. I could be remembering wrong but I want to say the limit without a powered hub inbetween is like 20 - 25 feet. You might want to try changing cables too, some of them may have gotten shorted its hard to say, but I’d also say maybe consider looking into a single larger powered HDMI switch, instead of these little non-powered ones. Also looking at the ones you posted, they look like they can go either way, splitting one signal into two, or switching between 2 signals, maybe make sure you have them set going in the right direction. I don’t know just a thought.
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