That looks AMAZING
Look at this mess in comparison (fyi I use scart to component to “DIY” for stuff I dont have component for yet (PCE, Saturn, whatever))
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Is the best switch the Extron Crosspoint or are there other good options?
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It really depends on what you want. There are two big advantages to the Extron Crosspoint switches in my opinion.
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They are professional grade A/V gear. This means they are very robust, very reliable, and because they were used all over the world, are quite abundant. Unfortunately the prices on eBay have ramped up substantially over the last few years.
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The Extron’s are also ‘dumb’ switches, which means they can usually switch anything you throw at it. Most models will do Component, Composite, S-Video, RGB, and SCART, but it can vary by model. Some have audio switching too. Make sure you get the exact model before buying and take a look at it’s capabilities in the manual. You cannot convert from one format to another though, that’s not what these are for.
There are other component only switches, and SCART only switches too. Some of the modern SCART switches are auto sensing, so you don’t even have to get up and press a button.
http://www.gretrostuff.com/store/gscartsw/
They aren’t cheap though, and they have less inputs than some models of Extron. They are however much smaller, very pretty, and you get things like a warranty and support.
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So the Crosspoint is less expensive? Would you get one on Ebay?
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Less expensive, yes.
eBay, probably… depending on how difficult it would be to find one locally.
The model numbers work like this:
- 1st number = inputs
- 2nd number = outputs
- Letters = capabilities
- H = Horizontal Sync
- V = Vertical Sync
- A = Audio (make sure you check for this if you want audio switching, it will have blue phoenix connectors on the back underneath the BNC connections)
Some examples:
84 HV = 8 in, 4 out, horizontal and vertical sync
128 HVA = 12 in, 8 out, horizontal and vertical sync, and stereo audio
1612 HVA = 16 in, 12 out, horizontal and vertical sync, and stereo audio
Two things to note
- All models support RGB video, so a lot of eBay listings will show the model number as RGBHV or RGBHVA. Not sure why they do that, but you can safely assume that all crosspoint switches are RGB capable.
- Lots of eBay listings mislabel them, and either list inputs or features incorrectly. ALWAYS check the photos of what you’re buying so you know exactly what you’re spending your money on. These things are ripped out of old installations by the dozens by auction companies, and they often have no idea what they’re selling!
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This uses BNC, correct? If it is BNC, I would need adapters for SCART. Would these adapters and the switch be more expensive than a SCART switch?
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Yes, you need to use BNC. You can either get SCART to BNC adapters for all the cables, or in some cases you can buy direct to BNC cables for some consoles.
Depending on how many you need, and the cables you buy. It could be more expensive.
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Oh! My switch has black buttons that aren’t illuminated.
Probably like mine, then. Does it have a spot for labels?
Ah, no spots for labels! Blasphemy!
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That’s a cool looking switch! I haven’t ever seen one of those before. Do you know if the buttons pull off? If so you may be able to do the same thing I did.
This is still better than mine:
(pardon the dust - I need to clean badly).
With such tiny buttons, my options were limited.
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I got a SCART switch, a component switch for my component consoles, then converted to both outputs to BNC for my BNC switch. I also route my NES and Famicom composite signals straight into my BNC switch too.
That way, I can have SCART, composite. and component going into my PVM and switch between them with a few button presses, and have the BNC switch handle all of the audio too. It can also handle my VGA needs when the time comes by converting to BNC.
If I could do it all over again with unlimited funds though, I’d just convert everything into BNC straight from the consoles (without intervening switches) and have a giant BNC matrix switch. It’s the cleanest way to do things in my opinion. But it’s also the most expensive if you don’t know how to make your own BNC cables from a SCART or VGA signal (and I don’t).
I also don’t know how to make my own Phoenix Block connectors for the audio which can also get expensive to buy from AV niche websites. If you do want to get a BNC switch, be sure to research how it takes audio before buying and ensure you can acquire the necessary adapters.
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I can make RCA adapters for BNC blocks for folks that need them. That’s what I use in my Extron Switch. I never did hand-wire the audio.
Very nice! Looks as if it was made for professional use at a show or something.
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Thanks so much! It took a couple of attempts. I didn’t like the way it looked on paper at all and the first pack of transparencies were like 85% clear. So I bought the 100% clear film and that did the trick! I don’t have a fancy printer or anything. Just a standard inkjet but I did use a high quality setting.
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retrogamingcables sells decent RCA to phoenix connectors that are reasonably priced. My only gripe is that they are a little flimsy feeling but I’ve bent the crap out of them plugging things in and they’ve worked perfect.
I had to hand wire the output, and it was also really easy. Only takes a couple minutes.
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Yep, can confirm they’re a little floppy. That isn’t on retrogaming cables or anything. Mine turned out the same way. Just has to do with the way the PCB interfaces with the Phoenix connector. They do work great though.
For all of you with video/audio switches, what do you do for power?
Do you manually turn the systems and screens on or is there a way to add that to a switching system as well?
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