When your games go on the fritz - Suteneko's repair & mod thread.

Interesting, I’ve never recapped anything. RC car electronics soldering is my main experience soldering, but I guess I thought they were well regarded cap kits. Good to know if I attempt to improve my soldering skills. Thanks!

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Put a new shell on my gba I got earlier this year. The old shell was missing the battery cover and was extremely yellowed. It almost feels like a brand new system. I’m really considering buying an ips screen for it.


You have no idea how happy I am right now. I bought god of war ps4 pro a few weeks ago for $235. The listing said it had no video. I assumed it was the hdmi port. When I got it my suspicion was correct since there were bent pins in it.

My first attempt at changing the port went okay. I added low melt solder to the pins and used a hot air station to remove the port. I was surprised at how much heat I had to pump into the board so I was afraid I damaged something. When I put the new port in I plugged it up and there was no video. Turns out I had the wrong port since ps4 and ps4 pro ports are different.

A week later I get my new port. I decided to use a magnifying glass and my cheap soldering iron to solder each pin.

Sure enough when I plugged it in this time I got the PlayStation logo. It’s such a great feeling trying something new and having it actually work.


Wow, awesome!

Now that is one expensive gamble and glad your assumption was spot on!
Good work :slight_smile:

SEGA Mega Drive AC Mains Adaptor (1602-05) Refurbishment:

Model No: 1602-05
Input: 240V 50Hz
Output: 10v DC 1.2A
Polarity: Center Negative

To open these SEGA power bricks up you will need a 4mm HEX driver.

However finding one that can open these can be quite problematic due to the depth of the holes and them only being 7mm in diameter:

I searched through quite a fair few tools before I found one that would be suitable to open these.
I recommend using a Wera Kraftform Micro Series 2069 05118120001 Nutdriver HEX 4.0 x 60mm

Now that it is opened up you need to de-solder the two points circled below:

Which separates the small PCB from the transformer leaving you with:

You can immediately see the capacitor has been leaking and that the power cable that is connected at C1 is frayed a little. This is the third SEGA mains adaptor that I have opened up and this has been the case in all of them so far.

While it is not necessary I de-solder all components from this small PCB as I intend to replace everything:

Original 1602-05 Component List:

  • 1x 3300μF 16v Capacitor
  • 4x 30D2 Switching Diode
  • 1x 390Ω Resistor


The US 1602 AC Mains Adaptor uses slightly different components:

  • 1x 3300μF 16v Capacitor
  • 4x Switching Diode (unable to confirm type)
  • 1x 750Ω Resistor

Here is the reverse of the PCB for anyone that is interested:

As mentioned previously it is not necessary to replace everything. The only thing you really need to replace is the single capacitor unless the other components have burnt out in which case the mains adaptor would not be working to begin with.

30D2 Switching Diodes are no longer being manufactured and are very difficult to find. These four diodes are performing the AC to DC conversion which is known as a “full-wave bridge rectifier”.

A suitable modern replacement for these are 1N5408 Switching Diodes.

For the 390Ω resistor I replaced it with a modern and more efficient 390Ω 1W Metal Oxide Resistor.

After cleaning up the PCB and slightly cutting back the frayed wire ends I re-assembled the small power PCB with the new components:


If your transformer is showing signs of rust you can also remove that by de-soldering it from the plug connectors circled below:

You can now easily use some rust removal jell on it if it is really bad or just lightly linish away the rust:

If you do this remember to replace the clear plastic piece to the bottom if it is present or just wrap it in Kapton Tape if it is not. And ensure you re-connect the polarity correctly!


I tested this power adaptor before and afterwards within my limited means and these were the results:


  • DC Voltage (Unloaded): 13.30v
  • DC Voltage (Mega Drive Load): 10.90v
  • AMPS (Mega Drive Load): 0.8a


  • DC Voltage (Unloaded): 13.40v
  • DC Voltage (Mega Drive Load): 11.00v
  • AMPS (Mega Drive Load): 0.8a

Not really any change for the better or worse.


It is well worth opening up your SEGA AC Mains Adaptor to change the 3300uf 16v capacitor that will be at the end of its life and sort out any frayed power cord wire ends, but everything else you can just leave alone unless there is a problem.

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PS2 Slim - No Power Repair:

After doing some repairs for someone local I got given some trash consoles for free to use as spares.

One of them was a PS2 Slim that is horribly warped to the degree it looks like a vehicle had run over it at some point and was not powering up at all:

There is no way to see how badly it is damaged without opening it up.

So I opened it up, expecting to see a cracked motherboard PCB:

Well this is looking promising. The PCB is not cracked!
Could it be as simple as the power connector is damaged?

BINGO! I re-soldered the connector back to the motherboard and it lives again:

However I can not get games to load because the top of the case is too badly warped and needs to be removed to be able to use discs.

@speedlolita provided the image below which shows the two points (A+C) that need to be held down to fool the PS2 into believing the disc tray is closed:


I then successfully tested it loading both DVD and CD based games:

Sadly this PS2 Slim needs a new case but otherwise it is working perfectly again!
For now it is going into my spares box.


Bridge the switches shut and yeet the lid. :sunglasses:


Xbox One Wired Controller Left Analog Stick Sensitivity Issue Repair:

My Xbox One controller started to have issues with its Left Analog Stick after 3000+ hours of use on PSO2, where there was a huge dead space where it could not detect anything.

You can see the dead zone highlighted in red below:


This resulted in characters in games only being able to walk slowly until you jammed the stick right to its edges which would then take several seconds before it would register and the characters in game would only then start to run.

To open up a Xbox One controller you need to carefully remove the left and right sides of the controller with a plastic pry tool:

With a T9 security screw bit remove 5 screws.
One of which is hidden underneath the serial sticker in the battery compartment:

If you peel this very carefully you will be able to stick it back down afterwards.

Carefully remove the shoulder button from its tabs so you can get easier access to the PCB and then you need to de-solder the 14 points highlighted in red below:

De-soldered and removed:

I then replaced it with a new ALPS analog stick and re-assembled after also replacing the very worn out thumb sticks :

And now working perfect again!


SEGA Master System Controller Non-Working Button “2”:

I picked up the below lot for £5GBP untested today from a dumpster diver:

I was expecting nothing to work but everything apart from Button 2 on the SMS controller was working!

Upon opening up the controller I could see there was a substantial amount of rust on the contact:

Using a fiberglass pen I lightly brushed off the rust:

Then cleaned up all the contacts with Isopropyl alcohol:

Re-assembled, cleaned and now fully working:

Let me know if you want me to post some of my older repairs and projects here!


Just wanted to say I always really enjoy these posts. I wish I was this proficient at repairing things but still really awesome to read through.


Post em all! I love repair posts!

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Taito F3 Converted Game Cart Conversion:

That is a mouthful but let me explain!

When I bought my Taito F3 ( in early 2019) it came bundled with a “Puzzle Bobble 4” cart.
The picture of the listing was not very good quality and at the time I believed it was a legitimate F3 Game.

However, when it arrived you could easily tell that the labels on it were fake:

I didn’t complain or care too much because the price I paid was exceptionally low and everything worked.

Looking underneath the F3 game we can see that the Taito sticker seal has been peeled off from over the screw in the center of the cart and it is marked as: M20J0116A which is the product ID for Puzzle Bobble 2:

Upon opening the F3 cartridge up we can see that where there should be Mask Rom’s on the top and bottom rows for Graphic and sound Data that we have EPROM’s with uncovered windows:

Upon turning over the PCB you can see all the flux residue that was not cleaned up and the poor soldering by whoever converted this F3 game originally:

Has I was not happy owning a bootleg/conversion, I eventually bought the original Puzzle Bobble 2-4:

So now I had a conversion I no longer required, I decided I would do something special with it and convert it into a game I could not realistically afford and really wanted to play on original hardware and do a good job of it.

For Taito F3 conversions you have to pay very special heed to what PAL you have at position IC21:

This will either be a D77-14 or a D77-15.

D77-14 is used for Program EPROM’s that are 27c2001 (0x40000).
D77-15 is used for Program EPROM’s that are 27c4001 (0x80000).

I have a D77-15 so I need to find a Taito F3 game that uses 27c4001 EPROM’s and of the games I could convert to I decided on Elevator Action Returns.

Now I needed to de-solder all the EPROM’s for graphic and sound data:

Unfortunately at this time I didn’t yet have a de-soldering gun and was resorting to using a manual pump and a cheap hot air station to help pry out the EPROM’s and of all the 336 via’s I accidentally damaged one:

Since I was going to put sockets in place I decided I would do the trace repair on the top of the circuit board with thin Kyna wire so it could easily be concealed under a socket:

Which was threaded through the via, to be soldered on the reverse of the PCB along with the Sockets legs:

With this problem resolved I then cleared the solder mask from IC4 where I needed to place a socket for a position which was not already populated and proceeded to solder in all the required sockets:

I then used my EPROM Eraser to erase all the old EPROM’s:

Using the information from the Mame Taito_F3.cpp I had figured out that to do this conversion I would need to programme the EPROM’s with the data from the contents of the MAME elvactr.zip as follows:


IC04 - 27C160  (100ns) Mame ROM : e02-01.4
IC08 - 27C160  (100ns) Mame ROM : e02-02.8
IC12 - 27C160  (100ns) Mame ROM : e02-03.12
IC17 - 27C4001 (100ns) Mame ROM : e02-16.17
IC18 - 27C4001 (100ns) Mame ROM : e02-10.18
IC19 - 27C4001 (100ns) Mame ROM : e02-11.19
IC20 - 27C4001 (100ns) Mame ROM : e02-12.20
IC32 - 27C2001 (120ns) Mame ROM : e02-13.32
IC33 - 27C2001 (120ns) Mame ROM : e02-14.33
IC38 - 27C160  (100ns) Mame ROM : e02-04.38
IC39 - 27C160  (100ns) Mame ROM : e02-05.39
IC43 - 27C160  (100ns) Mame ROM : e02-06.43
IC45 - 27C160  (100ns) Mame ROM : e02-07.45
IC47 - 27C160  (100ns) Mame ROM : e02-08.47

All the now programmed EPROM’s were then inserted in their appropriate sockets and EPROM windows covered up with electrical tape:

I then tested the cart on my Taito F3 and it booted fine, however I was getting some very strange random flickering single pixels at various certain places in the game as circled in the image below:

This problem is often caused in conversions by EPROM’s whose speed is too slow. Taito F3 hardware requires that everything apart from the two AUDIO PRG EPROM’s at positions IC32 & IC33 need to be running at 100ns or faster.

Since the game was running fine and the audio had no issues I only needed to look at the six EPROM’s that held graphic data (IC4, IC8, IC12, IC43, IC45 & IC47).

I dug out a spare known good 100ns 27C160 EPROM which I used to programme, replace and test each of those IC positions until I found the culprit bad EPROM which was then thrown away and I now had a perfect working version of Elevator Action Returns!

I then removed the old labels from the cart:

And as best as I could reproduced new labels for it making sure to add a note that it is a conversion:

I went to a local print shop and got a few printed out and then added them to my F3 cart:

And now to enjoy my new game:


Holy shit dude. That’s amazing work and exhibits a very high level of dedication and knowledge right there.

Very impressive. Also, that’s definitely the game to do it for too.


What an awesome post! I love seeing how you logically approach each step. Where’d you learn all this cryptic info?

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For a while I did also consider Darius Gaiden which was also possible but I’ve never really been a fan of that series and thought I’d get way more enjoyment out of Elevator Action Returns.

It has all been from learning as I go, taking everything a step at a time.

Mame’s github repository did the majority of the hard lifting for this project and the studying of various Taito F3 game PCB images that I found via google images so I could see what was different between games.

I wish I knew and understood a lot more.

Had a bit of a hit in my confidence recently after I’ve not been able to revive a Konami Asterix PCB I bought after many many hours of work trying to figure out its problems and making almost zero progress even after fixing a fair few minor things that I found to be bad on it. :sob:

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I know all about getting your confidence kicked around. I had the same thing happen on a Raiden Fighters Jet PCB I got on the cheap. I’ve also had a model 1 Sega CD I’ve been struggling with for months.

It’s funny after all kinds of successful work one or two rough projects can throw you a bit.

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Brilliant! Great work.

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Personally, I think I would’ve made the same choice. Elevator Action Returns is just so unique and interesting, not to take anything away from Darius Gaiden.

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“Crush the old order!”

Amazingly well presented repair.

Thanks for the great content.