I just received an RGB modded NES from ebay. Here’s a link to the auction. The console uses a Genesis 2 connector for the Tim Worthington mod,which is common on toasters. My problem is that I cannot get a picture via RGB on my 2030 or OSSC,all I get is a blank screen. According to the auction it should accept both csync and sync on composite,my Genesis cables are csync. The seller included some Genesis composite cables which work fine. Whats really weird is that if I connect the console to my 1954q via BNC to Scart,and using the same Genesis 2 Scart cable,I do get a picture but it is scrambled,which looks to be a sync issue (seen below).
Could it be that it only accepts sync on composite? I was going to have to buy new cables for this anyways but retro access is out of stock for the Genesis 2 composite sync cables which means I’ll have to import them,at that point it’ll be faster to ask for a refund and just buy a toaster. I should have went with a toaster anyways because i have a spare set of SNES Scart cables but I wanted the classic front loader,argh.
It would be csync, yes
It’s gonna be the cable. Unless I’m wrong! You can rewire the cable yourself if you have the knowhow.
It’s missing csync. If your known working cables give you the same scrambled picture, then something inside the console must have broken during shipping.
I’m not sure I understand your post correctly. What wiring did the seller use? Do you fear your monitors all only accept pure csync nd not cvideo as sync? Do you have any other console that use cvideo as sync?
Could it just be a problem with the Sync line of the Scart to BNC cable?
Yeh this. I’d pop it open and see what’s up. Tim’s board is labelled well so you should be able to check the sync lines.
Also my 2030 accepts composite video as sync so that shouldn’t be the issue.
It’s quite possible Tim’s RGB board has been wired up for sync on luma and just requires a simple 1 wire resolder job.
You should take a look inside the console and maybe post up a photo of the mod.
Not sure if this is the case on an NES but on an AV Famicom you need to cut a trace that disables composite video out to get pure csync.
You can see the pins here at the top left.
His website explains everything you would need to know.
It’s possible that you just need to move the sync wire over which is a very easy solder job however when I installed my NESRGB into my twin fami I got a similar picture and in the end it was problems with the socket. I ended up removing the socket and just soldering the PPU right to the board and that solved all my issues. Voltar tweeted this exact issue at one point so it’s a know problem with the sockets shipped with the boards.
I’m just gonna return it and get a refund. For $300 I shouldn’t have to do any work on it,I’m not that great with a soldering iron as well so there’s that,lol.
Absolutely. You paid for the product and it should work without issue.
For what it’s worth, I sold my RGB modded AV Famicom on eBay after I got my NT Mini earlier this year. I got the dreaded “product doesn’t work” message afterwards from the buyer.
Couldn’t work out between us what the issue was, as it was working when I had it and I had modded it myself. Luckily the guy was able to open it up and he noticed that the RGB board had come ever so slightly loose (it plugs into the Famicom via an adapter board via a dip socket). Pushed it down a bit and voila it worked! Must have been knocked heavily in transit.
It’s nice that it’s suedo plug and play but it’s a pretty poor design when shipping is involved. After moving I had to open my twin fami back up and reseat the board as well
I still think I would prefer that issue over getting a modder that covers the entire thing with hot glue to keep it all together.
Anyway, this seems as good a place as any to ask. I recently noticed that my rgb modded US NES was noticeably dimmer then my rgb modded AV Famicom. Any common reasons that may cause that?