Arcade Game/PCB Collecting: A Thread for Gamers With More Money Than Sense


I’ve been working on cleaning up the basement storage area and thought I’d take some pictures. I’m sure all of these need some level of repair. I didn’t use the flash when I took these pictures so no need to worry about erasing.


So… not a collection but more a discovery. I was at The Works in Reading, PA on Friday night and came across this in the corner…

Being a big fan of Ghost Squad, I had no idea this existed! It seems like essentially a sequel to that with some cool missions and shooting. Very cool!


Thought I’d post my break down, clean up and fan change for my Naomi GD-ROM now that I finally sorted through the mess of images I had mass dumped into a folder for various projects I had been working on.

First I removed the screw securing the GD-ROM cover and twisted it clockwise to open/remove it:

Removed the inserted GD-ROM:

Then I flipped it over (after replacing the drive cover) and removed the metal mounting plate from the GD-ROM which is held on with 4 screws.

Another 4 screws need to be removed to get into the GD-ROM Unit:

Now the GD-ROM unit is open you can simply detach the GD-ROM by pulling it upwards once three screws are removed leaving this:

The GD-ROM drive itself is exactly the same as you can find in any VA1 model “3.3v” Dreamcast so if it ever dies there is a good easy source for replacement drives:

You now need to unscrew 4 more screws to be able to lift up the metal shielding so you can unplug the fan connector from the main PCB:

Metal shielding removed:

Four screws hold the remaining PCB and metal shielding in place and the fan is held in place with a metal bracket via two screws. Leaving the bottom ABS plastic housing empty:

Close up of the main PCB for anyone that is interested:

The top ABS plastic housing is flipped over once the cover is removed again:

And is fully disassembled by the removal of two final screws:

The plastic casing were now washed in hot soapy water and left to dry. I also cleaned up any burrs or imperfections from around the GD-ROM cover with a fine file and linishing paper.

Since the metal mounting plate was going rusty in places I applied Hammerite Rust Removal Gel and left it for a while to do its job before using a steel wool scrubbing pad to clean off the last of the rust and then using WD40 to remove any residue from the Gel. I also used this to clean up the SCSI connector.

If you use any type of rust removal gel then ensure that it does not dry out as it will then be extremely difficult to remove!

Just like the CPS2 A Board and NAOMI case fans the NAOMI GD-ROM uses a 60mmx60mmx15mm fan.

Original fan on left and my replacement on the right:

I de-soldered the cable/connector from the original fan and then soldered onto the new replacement fan:

Then everything was re-assembled and re-mounted into my unit ready for use:


Awesome work


Nice clean-up, and I like how you have it mounted, but why not save yourself the headache and go with either a NetDimm or CF setup instead?


I don’t consider it a headache at all though and quite happy with what I have. The NetDimm or original CF SEGA used aren’t exactly cheap to obtain either and loading ROMS to them adds extra unnecessary complexity to the setup.

Not saying I am totally ruling out loading games via these alternative methods in the future to sample out of reach titles especially if I see a NetDimm selling cheaply, however I’d rather use original GD-ROM and NAOMI Game PCB for its day to day usage.

I also have my CPS1Dash Board running Street Fighter II CE mounted to the other side of my NAOMI now along with my CPS2 on the other side. I’m still working out the best way to wire everything up (still need to make my own JAMMA harness) and really need to build a supergun that better fits my requirements.

Slowly working through a lot of projects/maintenance so will get there eventually.


I found that the NetDimm or CF solutions (in the case of the CF adapter, you don’t even have to use an official one at this point) to be very straightforward in both execution, and the setup is actually easier than the GD-ROM reader. Specially, I appreciated that it saves wear and tear on hardware, and the makes jumping between games a little more quick and elegant. My first choice would always be loading games from the NAOMI carts, but that isn’t always an option.

I’ve seen JAMMA board “switchers” but I don’t know if I would trust that they aren’t sending current to all of the boards when you’re trying to play one, so my solution was to buy a JAMMA harness extender, that I use to plug/unplug between the boards/hardware, which puts the onus of the wear on the cheaper, intermediary part, rather than on the full JAMMA loom.

Great setup though!


Can anyone read Japanese? Or is pretty knowledgeable about electronics?

I’m trying to get a replacement knob/pot for the power supply on this Super Neo 29. It’s #6 in the manual below. I’m guessing it adjusts the 5V, but I don’t know what type of replacement potentiometer to get. This one used to allow for a philips head to adjust it, but the spinning portion fell out.

Import Game Spelunking - Tools and Techniques

Use the Google or Yandex Translate mobile apps (or websites). Here’s what the Google Translate iOS app spits out from your screen grab.

I’ve only edited to add line breaks.

Amazing, huh?

Description of switching power supply unit

The functions of various switches and connectors arranged in the switching power supply unit are as follows.

① Test switch
It is possible to enter test mode. Note) The test mode can not be entered unless the soft cassette is installed.

② Service switch (service credit switch)
You can raise the credit without activating the coin counter.

③ Degaussing switch
It is possible to eliminate color unevenness on the screen. Since there is no effect even if it is used continuously, please use at intervals of about 20 minutes,

④ power switch
is a sub power switch. There is a main power switch at the rear of the housing.

⑤ Fuseholder
fuse (6 A rush resistant type) enters. Since instantaneous high current flows when the power is turned on, general fuse on the market can not be used. Be sure to use “rush resistant type”. Note) The fuse is also on the DC 5 V line of the main harness. (Refer to P6 to P36)

⑥ V. ADJ
This is the adjustment volume for DC power supply (DC 5 V). Please do not move except absolutely when required.

Be sure to turn off the power of this unit and unplug the power plug from the wall outlet before connecting or disconnecting the connector of the unit or replacing the fuse. Cause it becomes a cause. Electric shock etc. things


Holy shit


Well, that’s it you guys. I’m in.


It’s beautiful.


Oh man, so jelly at owning AvP. Love the look of that MVS themed stick, is it a custom build?


The controller is a kit from It was easy to put together and was a fun little project to do. I used all Sanwa buttons and sticks.


Great job on building it! Looks very slick.


Just finished applying a new control panel surround from gameongrafix.


Cool! I can’t see it on their site, was it a custom print? Keen to get one for my cabinet.


Yes, it was a custom print. Someone on Arcade Otaku made the repro available on the wiki.


So sickkkk. Is there a pick of the whole cabinet?


Here’s the whole cab. Pic is kinda large, you’ll have to expand it. Waiting on an actual Aero City marquee holder for the top and two Taito arcade stools. Only other thing I need is a Sega ashtray for the control panel.