I have the v2 ips and I’m going to wait for a revision for my spare console - the GB and GBC both have better options with pixel modes and no image retention.
Once something like that hits the market I’m going straight for the black aluminium boxypixel case.
I like the AGS + backlight mods, and was having a tough time picking between the 2 but ultimately went with this the IPS v2 because it reminds me of when I used to emulate the hell out of GBA when I was a kid. GB/GBC though I’d definitely go for the retro pixel screens as I used to have a GBP as a kid and it’d look closer to what I remember.
Oh it’s still a great screen - I put one in my first console and use it regularly (completed Metroid Zero Mission on it a week or so ago) I was tempted to get another one for my second console but in light of some of the developments on the GB and GBC side I’m going to wait it out until the GBA gets the same love.
To me they don’t - it feels like I’m playing on an emulator. I have a v2 IPS that I will replace if a version with decent pixel effect comes out. Until then, an original GBA with an AGS-101 mod is the best shell/screen combo for me.
They double the resolution if I remember correctly, so the visuals are ultra crisp. Looks even better than emulation imo, but also not like what you’d probably remember if you had a GBA. There are the AGS-101 mods with backlight if you’d prefer that, which is the screen that shipped with the SP.
FYI, Funny Playing has a new GBA screen kit that might be an option. Using something pulled from a DSI, though? Out of stock at the moment, though, so I’ll have to wait to test it out.
I grabbed an FP laminated screen recently too with a shell that is pre-made to fit the IPS screen, it’s a far better build quality than the ‘Super OSD’ shell I got for a previous GBC mod. That being said I think the ‘Super OSD’ has the better screen features, the RGB controls are really amazing.
Did you have trouble with the touch sensor? I ended up mounting mine in the IR port and extended it with a piece of wire to give myself more room to manoeuvre. It worked fine outside of the case but was very inconsistent if I placed it elsewhere.
I also bought aftermarket buttons but the dpad would not register the up input, so I just swapped them all for stock.
Yes! The same issue, I had to open it up several times to make sure the Kapton tape held it properly. Hmm, interesting I feel like the d-pad wasn’t registering too but I thought it might have been the silicone, I might swap back in the OEM d-pad.
Glad it wasn’t just me having trouble with the sensor. I was worried that I had broken it at one point but it worked fine outside the case.
As for the d-pad I wasted a solid hour opening and closing the case (stripped two screw posts doing it) trying to figure out the problem. My original setup was old membranes and new buttons. Up didn’t work until I swapped in an OEM d-pad.
I had to resolder the touch ribbon a few times because I wasn’t sure the angle was right, a real pain in the butt! There’s an easier method using copper tape mentioned by YTuber Makho but I didn’t have any handy. On the ‘Super OSD’ kit they give you little square pads with soldered wires which are far easier to deal with I feel:
It’s a shame the aftermarket d-pad didn’t work out, I noticed the A/B buttons are slightly smaller than OEM but they feel okay so I’m going to leave them in. Oh damn, that sucks the screw posts got stripped! Does it close okay? Makes me nervous about opening it again as I still need to do some sound mods.
Yeah it closes okay because they are the two centre case screws so provided the top and bottom screws are tight they do enough of the work.
The case is pretty decent considering it’s an aftermarket one, I would just take it easy and only open it if you need to. I went way overboard and took it apart 20+ times.