While I agree with you, at least the backgrounds in CvS2 make slightly more sense, contextually. They also fit the aesthetic a bit better. MvC2 look like placeholders pulled from an entirely different game.
Thereâs at least some fanservice in the CvS2 backgrounds but still theyâre a little generic in places. MvC2 truly takes the biscuit, previous entries to the series feature places like the rooftop of the daily bugle or the danger room (Iâm counting CotA) but they go with some stage out in the desert? a nice clock tower? a clown stage? theyâre nicely done though but completely baffling thematically speaking.
Naomi offered up CvS2 and MvC2 in both 240p and 480p flavours, right? The Dreamcast versions @480p with an SLG make the sprites sit way better on the backgrounds than just raw 480p I feel
Naomi outputted these games in 240p? Do you have a source for that?
Also, does SLG mean scan line generator?
I donât own a Naomi myself but seen it mentioned a couple of times around the net. That being said Iâm not sure if it does, I think the 15khz dip switch will only output 480i?
I saw another thread mention some extra hardware was needed âSupposedly you need an additional IO board to properly convert 480i to 240p on naomi.â
Thatâs right, scanline generator.
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I owned a Naomi board and I can tell you that it outputted at 480p. I do beleive there was an extra board to output images at 240p but I have no experience with that
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Naomi can output 15khz & 31khzâthere are dip switches on the mainboard. To the best of my knowledge, all games supported both output resolutions. Depending on which JVS IO youâre using, you can route the video signal through your regular JAMMA-edge as opposed to the DE-15 port. This allowed arcade operators to stick Naomi games in non-JVS cabs.
Is the 15khz option 480i or 240p?
Pretty sure only World Kicks Soccer goes into 240p using the 15khz option, everything else is 480i.
Anyone know how to fix the Agetec Arcade Stick for the Sega Dreamcast? The Z button isnât responding.
Have you opened it up?
Yes, no capacitors seem to be leaking. I cleaned the inside, as well as the button and the connection cable attached to it. After I cleaned it, it worked for less than 5 minutes then stopped.
Change the button and/or wiring to it, I reckon.
Checking continuity with a multimeter would help eliminate the wiring being a problem.
Thanks Iâll try that. Do you know what type of glue was used to keep the cable and button together?
It might actually be title-specific, with 480i being the default unless otherwise intended. Iâm assuming that all of the Capcom Naomi-Dreamcast ports that are 240p on one of the platforms, mirror the specs on the other, if not just due to making life easier for themselves. (Regardless of whichever the target platform was initially.)
Retrobit Dreamcast controllers
- Wired and wireless
- Tweaked design
- ETA Late 2020
I got an ad about these on social media
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Looks like I picked up my console just in time!
I wonder if theyâll move the wire to the top?
But what about the vmu/vibration slots?
On original controllers the wire can be attached underneath to go up.
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For those of you with GDEMU experience, how serious is the heat issue thatâs caused by removing the GDROM drive? I came across some info here that recommends adding resistors or replacing the PSU completely to avoid shortening the lifespan of the unit. (Are they really just twisting some resistors together and jamming them in?)
I would say quite serious, I read that it was Ok but I decided I was taking no chances, mine was way too hot for my liking. Replaced it with a Pico PSU, itâs much better, completely cool in comparison.
This seems like a nice solution,
very similar to a Pico but even tidier.
Sorry linked a Saturn version, but the seller also has DC equivalent.
https ://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303213610287
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Thanks - will try to find an equivalent on the US eBay site.
Edit: Found out Beharbros are making one now and going to give that a shot:
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