Where in OC? I grew up in Laguna Niguel. Went to Dana Hills High.
Man, that sounds awesome - I mean, in retrospective, of course - like, movie material.
I live in a completely different part of the world, and I can’t even envision a real gws encounter in my mind.
Some of the weight classes now have very shallow talent pools, full of relatively unknown fighters being fed to dominant champions or being held up by injured or MIA title holders. Every time they try to hype up someone new and exciting, they rush it and the hype train gets derailed as the person ends up exposed or demolished by a seasoned fighter (Yair, Paige, Sage, Waterson, Francis). The casual fan has grown accustomed to tuning in for big personalities like McGregor of which there are very few people like that in the UFC. Conor himself may never fight again after his massive payday with Floyd. There are too many interim title belts being given out too. Then there’s Jon’s ongoing BS screwing up UFC’s 2017/2018 plans to make him the next big star.
It’s just one thing after another. I still watch because a good fight is a good fight, and this past weekend’s Fight Night was surprisingly good from beginning to end. I hope numbers improve because women’s MMA is really coming into its own and become really fun to watch. It’s way past the days of one-dimensional Ronda bullying lesser opponents and finishing them in seconds with her judo throw and armbar.
I live in OC now but originally I am from the LA Area. I used to live in Irvine but now I am in Brea. If you grew up there you probably had me buzz past you at Salt Creek or Dana Strand as those were my two favorite breaks. Strand was until they built all those Mansions on the beach. At least it isn’t a half mile walk down that path anymore.
Great White Sharks are big and they have dead eyes. I hate encountering them. Meanwhile, I have actually had a bull Dolphin knock me off my board. He was playing or establishing his dominance. Either way, that was infinitely more scary then noticing the Shark’s fin. The ocean is scary and I am less interested in going out in it now that I have kids. I just don’t want them to not have a dad. Its a weird feeling being scared for someone else.
Spongers look more like a tasty seal from down below than surfers.
I saw your post earlier. Cool that you used to BB back in the day. I used to sponge up in OC more often, but with the traffic these days and being busy with work, don’t go up there as much. Although I’ve been craving some Seal Beach a-frame shore break bombs on a large winter swell here of late.
Surfing Seal Beach is like swimming near the Nuke Power plant on the Simpsons. Its DIRTY.
Why sponge SB when you can hit up the Wedge or 40th St. Newport. I still sponge Wedge when the swell is right.
Edit. Also SB and Surfside (the area between HB & SB) is where I’ve seen about 4 GWS. This is pre-GWS invasion of Cali. This was back maybe 10 years ago.
I love all the little barreling a-frame peaks at Seal Beach on a good day. I’ve never surfed 40th St.
I was at 40th once and got the biggest barrel of my life. The wave was a solid 12 and I was full on drop knee looking like some picture of pipe. All the space in the world on this amazing left. Probably was a 10-15 second pit before it spit me out.
I walk about 30 - 35 miles a week, and do weight training 3 days a week, but I don’t know if I would call those hobbies and more just trying to be healthier. My main hobby for years was Aikido, I did that from hmm 2004 through like 2014/5. I’d have kept with it but free time for it wasn’t quite there, and money was tight so it became something I had to cut. I’d really love to get back to it some day though.
I also read a lot, and I do a weekly comic book podcast with some friends. https://bullmoosecomics.squarespace.com/ if anyone is interested. I also really want to start making youtube videos. I actually have a channel but I pretty much only use it like once a year when I do my extra life stream for charity. Though that doesn’t change the fact that I have probably 500 - 600 gigs of recordings of my entire play throughs of a few games that I have scripts written for, some storyboards, and basically everything outside of actually filming myself and recording the voice over of done. One day.
Isn’t it funny when you know your own gargon and then you come across someone else’s weird jargon. Pretend you are a surfer listening to people talking the types of sync one could use and when its best to use which.