I’m hoping there will be something that says retrobit on the back/underside so it will be easy to tell.
I handled a Master System III once and the plastic quality was very bad. Western MSII consoles are already pretty cheapo and it was lower quality than that. But maybe it’s not a typical model.
However, the parts may have been imported, but not from Japan. By percentage, few Sega manufactured consoles had most parts made in Japan, typically only early and Japanese domestic models of any console. Almost all were made in China/Taiwan/Indonesia, especially any later revisions (Master System II/Mega Drive II onward etc). The chips, boards, plastic, the lot were mostly made in China.
What’s your perspective on Famiclones? I’ve heard from many they were the dominant system in the 90s.
Man, the D-Pad on that analog controller looks spot on. Moreso than the Saturn pad! I’ll try these out for sure with a USB Saturn controller.
Any reason to favor these over the 8bitdo wireless Genesis controllers coming out next month?
One company has a track record of iffy quality the other seems to be pretty stellar.
Or Krikz one which is already out too.
And 8bitdo’s already released Mega Drive DIY kits (which I already have)
The 8bitdo ones look chunkier, which is good to me, the original Mega Drive controller isn’t great to hold for me. I use an original ‘fat’ IR controller on Mega Drive which I prefer
However, these ones are Saturn pads, which to me is a big upgrade over standard Mega Drive.
Sorry if I’m being dense, but which ones have the iffy track record? 8bitdo and their dpad issues?
Retrobit makes junk clone consoles. 8bitdo products are a lot better and dpad issues aren’t as common. I have several and only one is kinda faulty but it’s one of the first 8bitdo products.
The dpad issue (which is fixable anyway) only affects certain playstyles I think. I never noticed it and did a one credit Contra run with a first generation FC30 no issues. But tested and found I could replicate the false positives using diagonals.
I think some people are more precise, and others less in terms of which part of the dpad they hit. I guess I just hit the end of each dpad piece pretty precisely so it never turned up, but if you roll more between them it may pop up.
I’ll test the latest ones, the DIY models, see if it can be reproduced.
That could be exactly why I don’t notice it. I rarely use angles unless I mean to do so. Meanwhile, I’m constantly getting false positives on the Switch Pro pad.
I had one famiclone in the late 80’s (or should I say, NES-clones, since most of the clones were 72-pins). It was called Top Game, and it has both 60 and 72 pins at the same board, which is awesome not to deal with adapters. I only saw a real NES some years later, but I guess we didn’t knew any better. But yeah, clones were commonplace in here. Master System were really popular at the time because there was actual marketing for it (and almost every mom and pop store had the console and games for it). Finding NES Games to buy was somewhat hard, so we used to rent games.
A single impression but look and feel being described as amazing is promising, the comms error less so. Hopefully, not something that happens with the final release…
That pause issue that he described is exactly what happens when you mod a genesis dpad into a Saturn controller (a quick fix that people used to do at the time). Works fine 95% of the time, but doing down then up in rapid succession on the dpad (guile flash kick) pauses the game on every saturn controller that I tested so far. Putting an Stock saturn dpad Back solve those issues.
EDIT: I guess that counts as “it works like the real thing”
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I did not know that! In the tweet, it’s mentioned d-pad and button presses are causing it to pause, have you come across that too or is it just using the Genesis/MD d-pad that causes the issue? I guess they need to model the Saturn d-pad better and look into whether the button presses are bugging out on their new pcb design, hype deflated haha.
The MD dpad glitch is only related to dpad commands and not button presses, at least in my experience.
If I have some time today, I can make a quick video showing this glitch, because I still have a Genesis DPAD lying around and modding will take 5 minutes or less.
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I recently went down that rabbit hole after getting some frustrating inputs in Celeste with my sfc30 pro and it’s definitely an issue for me. I did the little dpad fix and now it’s right inline with my official SNES controllers.
Got confused with my post… this is what I have pre-ordered…
Friday.
I ordered both. I think I want the BT one for utility.
Since you can use it via USB, I’m ok with that option. It’ll get the most use with the CDX.